Three weeks of the washer creeping toward the wall every spin. Both shocks turned out to be worn flat. It hasn't moved an inch since they were swapped.
Isolde F.
A drum that stalls, a puddle where there shouldn't be one, or a thump that rattles the whole room, in most cases a single worn part is behind it.
Six things that bring people to our door, and the cause we most often find.
The tub fills, agitates, rinses, and then nothing. You lift the lid on a dripping, heavy load. Nine times in ten it's the lid or door switch failing to tell the board everything is latched, so the board refuses to spin for safety. Sometimes the switch is dead, sometimes it just needs nudging back into position.
Get down and look at the floor pattern. Water near the front usually means the door boot on a front-loader has split at a fold. Water pooling toward the back points at hoses or fittings. A leak that only starts mid-spin often means a tub seal has given up.
Silence, or a low hum, and the drum stays dry. A valve clogged with mineral scale is a frequent explanation. So is a supply line squashed against the wall when the machine was pushed back. Before we open anything, we make sure both taps behind the unit are fully turned on.
It starts as a shimmy and ends with the machine inching across the floor. Springs and dampers under the tub soften over time, and the drum's momentum has nowhere to go. Replacing the whole set together keeps the new parts from being overworked by the old ones.
One dull, heavy thud with every rotation, worse than it was last month. That rhythm is the classic sign of a worn drum bearing. It's a big enough job that we'd rather listen to it running first than quote from a description.
Forty minutes in, the machine just quits and flashes a code you've never seen. Often it's the sensor that reads the water level feeding wrong numbers to the board. Testing that one part costs a fraction of swapping the board itself.
Still Not Sure?
One phone call gets you a straight answer, most jobs wrap up in a single visit.
Manufacturers label these their own way, but the same handful of signals keep showing up.
Manufacturers each use their own system, so read this as a rough guide, not a substitute for your manual. If the same one comes back after you cut the power for a minute, get a technician out to read it properly.
What customers said after we sorted out their washer.
A fair share of what we see turns out to be something quick and safe enough to rule out yourself, no tools needed.
Balance the load. One bulky item, like a duvet, can throw the whole spin off. Spread it out or add a couple of towels.
Open both taps fully. The hot and cold valves behind the machine need to be wide open, or it looks like a fill fault.
Trace the drain hose. Slide the unit forward a little and look for sharp bends or a pinched spot along the hose.
Latch the door properly. Push it shut until it clicks. Most washers won't begin until they hear that latch.
Lighten the load. Overstuffing can trip a sensor and end the cycle early. Try a smaller batch.
Level it up. A machine that rocks a little shakes far more than it should. Turn the front feet by hand until it sits still.
Still no luck after trying these? Time to have someone take a proper look. Book a technician and we'll take it from there.
Send your details over and we'll follow up to lock in a time that works, most repairs settled the same day.
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